Cakes, Gelato and Chocolates
The Southeast boasts three of the city's best choices for sweet treats: Pix Pâtisserie, Papa Haydn, and Bakery Bar. My pick is Pix for, if nothing else, their sublime macaroons. Impeccably constructed cakes and tarts like the Amélie (orange vanilla crème brulée, glazed chocolate mousse studded with caramelized hazelnuts, praline crisp, and Cointreau genoise) are more elegant and palatable than the cloying creations at Papa Haydn. Regardless, the latter has been the classic Portland dessert spot for more than two decades. Hardly delicate or refined, but for the mindless pleasure of a sugar fix, it's hard to beat a slab of something like their raspberry gateau.
Newcomer Bakery Bar – the little Beethoven to old Papa Haydn – is still finding its feet. However, anywhere capable of producing something as fabulous as their apple-hazelnut frangipane tart is more than worthy in my book. Moreover, their "lemon-lemon" tart outdoes even Pix's irreproachable tarte citron for sheer lemony heavenliness. (Note: Bakery Bar closes at 6pm and so is not really a dessert place.)
Tarts and cakes abound, but SE Portland is sadly lacking in ice cream shops or gelaterie. Closest to campus is Reedie-run Staccato Gelato just north of Burnside. Their gelato can be exceptional; there was a particularly memorable run of pear gelato the fall it opened and the hazelnut is always vividly great. With its playful interior and offbeat flavours (peanut butter and chocolate chip?), Staccato is an idiosyncratic take on the traditional gelateria – and ultimately all the more likeable for it.
Situated right next to Powell's, Mio Gelato has the more consistent product, even as its orthodoxy makes the shop less charming than Staccato. Singling out one flavour for praise is difficult, but the zabaglione (marsala-laced custard) is pretty wonderful. Further north, deep in the Pearl, is Via Delizia. Despite its awfully florid faux-fresco decorations, the flavours are authentic and agreeable.
One last place which deserves mention is Sahagún. Some consider Moonstruck to be the acme of Portland chocolatiers. Evidently they have not been to Sahagún. Stick to the former if you want chocolate sand dollars and cream cones; Sahagún makes exquisite truffles for palates desiring more than mere sweetness. The transcendental hot chocolate, made to order from real melted cocoa solids, is truly outstanding – one of Portland's gastronomic highlights. To sip it is to experience a rare joy.
Bakery Bar: 1028 SE Water Ave $-$$
Papa Haydn: 5829 SE Milwaukie Ave; also at 701 NW 23rd Ave $$-$$$
Pix Pâtisserie: 3402 SE Division St; also at 3901 N Williams $-$$ R
Mio Gelato: 25 NW 11th Ave; also at 838 NW Kearney $ R
Moonstruck: 608 SW Alder St; also at 526 NW 23rd Ave $
Sahagún: 10 NW 16th Ave $-$$ R
Staccato Gelato: 232 NE 28th Ave $
Via Delizia: 1105 NW Marshall St $
See also: Rimsky-Korsakoffee House.