American
There are precious few standouts in this genre flush with banal cookery masquerading as “comfort food.” One of the more significant establishments is Ken's Place, thanks in no small part to the Tuesday barbecue night. LOW BBQ, as it's called, has floated through various incarnations, including a stint at Apizza Scholls, but is now permanently ensconced at Ken's. By unanimous consent, this Texas-style meatfest is utterly unrivalled in Portland, and may well stand to be compared with competent barbecue places in the South. Ribs (lamb or pork) and brisket are superlative, and the sides just as tasty. On other days of the week, Ken's reverts to serving nice homestyle dishes such as buttermilk fried chicken. These are often underwhelming for what you pay, but the whimsical diner setting – all Mason jars and Formica – is genial.
Savoy Bistro attempts the same trick: delivering unchallenging meals to those disinclined to greasy diner food (such as that served at Dots across the street). The location is great, prices fair, and the décor comfortably sleek. The food, however, is decidedly lacking. Certain dishes like the smoked trout are good, but the blandness of most leave you feeling thoroughly indifferent. Nonetheless it's better value than Ken's and a useful place to know about. An abbreviated version of the same menu is available until late at the attached tavern next door. (N.B. It's a cheap shot, but I can't resist remarking in passing how the risible Portland Mercury deems the food at Savoy to be “haute cuisine.” The likes of Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Passard would literally wet their aprons laughing.)
A mainstay of cheap eating on Hawthorne is Cup and Saucer. Always packed for brunch, the friendly diner is most certainly not worth waiting in line for, but a reasonable option at other times. Such an unenthusiastic description applies just as well to Old Wives' Tales. This long-running institution on Burnside has many vegetarian options, but little else in particular to recommend it.
Cup and Saucer: 3566 SE Hawthorne Blvd $-$$
Ken's Place: 1852 SE Hawthorne Blvd $$-$$$
Old Wives' Tales: 1300 E Burnside St $-$$ V
Savoy Tavern and Bistro: 2500 SE Clinton St $$
See “Places for Parents, Dates and Splurges” and “Late Night” for more suggestions.